Lodi emerging as California's newest fine wine destination

By Nancy Beckman
Lodi Conference and Visitors Bureau

On the Northern California tourism scene, upstart "Lodi Wine Country" is emerging as a popular wine destination. With a spectacular new wine center and a flurry of winery openings, the region is finally attracting the attention it deserves.

Located just 90 minutes from San Francisco and 60 minutes from Napa, the Lodi appellation enjoys similar climate and growing conditions to its coastal neighbors. Lodi produces more wine than Napa and Sonoma combined, yet is only now becoming known in the consumer world.

Some of America's most popular wines are made here, from Mondavi "Woodbridge" to Gallo "Turning Leaf" and Sebastiani "Vendange" as well as Glen Ellen, Sutter Home, Forest Glen, Beringer and Fetzer wines, among others. Many consumers may not have heard of Lodi before since most of the wine from the region bore the broad "California" label. A decade ago only a few labels were produced under the "Lodi" name, now there are more than 150. Visitors to the region will be delighted to discover the forty boutique wineries that dot the landscape offering a friendly welcome, a relaxing atmosphere and award-winning wines.

The Natural Setting

Early explorers to the area discovered a region teeming with wildlife and lush vegetation. The valley's floor was covered with towering oaks, grasses, and wildflowers. The rivers were filled with salmon, the skies with migratory birds, and the lands rich with deer. Grizzly bears rumbled through the foothills, vast herds of antelope and elk roamed the valley floors, and Miwok Indians first inhabited the region, hunting and gathering along the rivers.

Grapes were always part of the local landscape, growing wild dangling from the trees along the riverbanks. Early trappers called one stream "Wine Creek," due to the bounty of wild vines. That river was later renamed the Calaveras River, and flows through the southern part of the Lodi-Woodbridge region.

The First Vineyards

Capt. Charles Weber, founder of Stockton, was the first to plant grapes in the region around his home in 1850. Two years later, a Massachusetts man named George West, who first came to California to mine gold, saw those flourishing vines. West got some cuttings from Weber and established the first major vineyard in the region just north of Stockton at the southern edge of the Lodi-Woodbridge region.

A good businessman, West could see that California had very few wineries yet a rapidly growing and thirsty population. In 1858, he built the El Pinal Winery and became the region's first commercial vintner. While West was expanding his vineyards and planting different varieties, growers in the heart of Lodi prospered farming grain and watermelons.

The Tokay

By the late 1880s the market for grains and watermelons went flat. Farmers began focusing on other crops but none excelled like grapes. Several different varieties did well in Lodi, but Zinfandel and Tokay stood out above the rest. Farmers especially embraced the Tokay, a versatile table grape with an eye-catching flame color. It was only in Lodi, with its sandy soils and cool delta breezes, that the Tokay would develop its distinctive flame color laying the foundation for what would eventually become the Lodi Appellation (established 1986).

The Tokay was a delicious table grape that held up well during the long rail trip across country to eastern markets. It could also be fermented into wine, distilled into brandy, or fortified into ports and sherries.

Just after the turn of the century, vineyard development thrived, shipping companies emerged, and wineries slowly began sprouting up in the Lodi area. The once struggling farmers prospered, and in 1901 the local newspaper declared that wine production was "the coming industry for this part of the state."

Prohibition

The enactment of Prohibition in 1919 posed a real threat to Lodi winegrape growers. Although some wineries did close, and some farmers prematurely tore out their vines, it turned out that Prohibition became a very prosperous time for Lodi growers. The business just changed from making wine to shipping fresh grapes. Since home winemaking was allowed under the Volstead Act, the demand for winegrapes actually increased during Prohibition. Thousands of railcars left Lodi each harvest full of Zinfandels, Tokays, Alicante's, and many other winegrapes.

The repeal of Prohibition in 1933 signaled the rebirth of the Lodi wine industry. Some new co-operatives were formed, many new wineries were built, and Lodi wines were once again finding their way across the country. Dessert wines like sherry, port, and sparkling wines were the consumer's preference at the time.

The Varietal Wine Boom

Throughout the '40s and '50s Lodi prospered with their Tokays, Zinfandels, and dessert wines, but then in the 1960s consumer tastes began to change. They began to prefer table wines, and then later, quality varietal wines. The Tokay, no longer favored by wineries, was dealt another serious blow with the development of the seedless table grape that flourished in the warmer climates south of Lodi. The table grape market completely disappeared, and Lodi growers began focusing on producing quality varietal winegrapes for the blossoming table wine market.

The transition, which began in the late '60s, and climaxed in the mid '90s saw thousands of acres of grapes converted into premium varietal winegrapes. Buoyed by the reported health benefits of moderate wine consumption and a strong US economy, wineries throughout the state turned to Lodi to supply the growing demand for delicious affordable table wines.

The Lodi Appellation

The area's transition to premium wines got a credibility boost when the Lodi Appellation (American Viticulture Area) was approved in 1986. Wineries were now able to label their wines with Lodi listed as the grapes' origin. Lodi was no longer the wine industry's best kept secret as awareness slowly began to build for the distinctive quality of Lodi wines. At first only a handful of small local vintners produced a "Lodi" designated wine, but as the quality and the reputation spread, wineries across the state proudly proclaimed "Lodi" on their wine label.

The Wines

The wines of Lodi are definitely worth seeking out, especially Zinfandel. Full-bodied, fleshy, fruit-forward and flavorful are words that come to mind to describe these gems. The wines feature soft silky tannins and invite early drinking or will reward a few years aging. Along with its flagship Zinfandel, Lodi's Rhone–style varieties such as Viognier and Syrah are showing tremendous promise. Also Lodi is the nation's leading producer of popular varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Today and the Future

Today, Lodi is home to forty wineries, hundreds of "Lodi" labeled wines, and thousands of acres of premium winegrapes. Its growers and vintners combine the best of tradition with the most modern advances of science and technology. It leads the industry in sustainable viticultural practices, preserving the land for generations to come. It is a region where a new generation of growers is rediscovering its rich heritage, and setting out to produce world-class wines that rival the best that California has to offer.

As a capstone to the region's rise to popularity, Lodi proudly sports a new 7000 square foot Wine and Visitor Center. Visitors will enjoy a myriad of interactive exhibits and displays that are both educational and entertaining, as well as a wine tasting room which features all the region's offerings. In addition the Lodi Conference and Visitor Bureau (209-365-6521; visitlodi.com) is on site to guide tourists to a wide array of restaurants, B&B's and lodging accommodations, as well as numerous attractions such as golf, nature viewing and even sky-diving!

Visitors especially enjoy the relaxed, uncrowded atmosphere of Lodi Wine Country. For more information contact the Lodi Winegrape Commission (209-367-4727; lodiwine.com).