Lodi’s wine culture strong, diverse

By Brian Ross
News-Sentinel staff writer

Lodi, Woodbridge and the surrounding foothills are among California’s few remaining unspoiled destinations for wine fanciers — offering myriad quality vintages at surprisingly affordable prices.

These tasting rooms offer some of the most genuine wine experiences to be had in all the state. Guests are often able to rub elbows and chat with wine makers about their bottlings at these small, cozy “boutique” wineries.

Other vintners in the area represent some of the biggest and most respected names in the world of wine, such as Robert Mondavi’s Woodbridge Winery and Canandaigua, which recently purchased Sebastiani’s holdings in Lodi.

Two examples of area tasting rooms exemplify this diversity.

Peirano Estates, a family-owned operation which boasts some of the oldest zinfandel vines in the area, three years ago opened the doors of its tasting room and gift shop to the public.

The homey feel of the small, shake-facade building is no coincidence. Located on the West Frontage Road parallel to Highway 99, just north of Acampo Road, the tasting room was at one time the Peirano family’s home.

Built in 1904, it had to be moved back in 1950, when the state built the southbound lanes of Highway 99, said Teresa Murphy, Peirano’s national marketing and sales coordinator.

The estate has been in the family for 100 years — since Giacomo Peirano established it. Peirano is great-grandfather of the current owner, Lance Randolph. Peirano’s tasting room is open Thursday through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Peirano’s also has a gift shop, deli and picnic areas, surrounded by 300 acres of grapes for those who want to make a day of it. Call (209) 369-9463.

A second recent tasting room addition is at Woodbridge Winery.

Opened in June 1999 at 5950 E. Woodbridge Road, the Woodbridge tasting room has attracted larger crowds each year.

One of the tasting room’s featured labels is a vintage called “Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi Winemaker’s Selection,” which is not available in stores.

The tasting room is open 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday.

In addition to tasting, the winery holds a public tour each day at 9:30 a.m. with complimentary tastings. Private tours and tastings are available by appointment. Call (209) 365-2839.

Not new, but certainly a local landmark, the old Oakridge Vineyard is a mid-sized winery with a rich local history.

Founded in 1934, at the repeal of Prohibition, the 32-member cooperative is one of California’s longest continually running cooperative wineries.

The tasting room and gift shop, located at 6100 E. Highway 12, is one of the more unique tasting spots. Known affectionately as “Tank 150” by some employees, the giant, redwood half-barrel used to hold up to 50,000 gallons of wine before it was purchased by the co-op in 1965 and converted into retail space.

Oakridge’s tasting room is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Saturday, and noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. There is a gift shop and picnic area. Call (209) 369-4758, ext. 7.

Peirano, Oakridge and Mondavi represent only a drop in the proverbial barrel of what is out there for wine enthusiasts visiting the Lodi area.

There are dozens of small boutique wineries — some in Lodi itself; others in the surrounding foothill communities of Calaveras and Amador counties.

Most have regular hours, and many will arrange special tastings and tours by appointment.

For those who don’t like to take self-guided tours, each May area grape growers band together and hold an event called “Vines to Wines.”

Participants — given a map, a starting place and a wine tasting glass — visit about seven wineries. Wineries participating in 1999 included Phillips Farms, Spenker, Lucas, Peirano Estates, Woodbridge, St. Amant and Oakridge wineries.

Beside sampling wine, there are usually food and educational features about wine making, said Betty Ann Spenker of the Spenker Winery, 17303 De Vries Road.

Subjects might be barrels and how they influence the taste of wine, or how weather and soil affect the flavor of grapes.

“People get a better feel for not only what wine tastes like but how it is made,” Spenker said.

Vines to Wines organizers have typically targeted the tour for the last week in May — but the date and the participating wineries are not fixed, Spenker said.

For information, call 1-888-700-LODI.