Whitewashed “pickling” does wonders for dark wood walls
Q: We are in the process of purchasing an older home that has dark wood paneling in several rooms. Prior to moving in, I want to have something done to lighten the wood paneling. I would like to keep the wood grain exposed so using paint is not the best solution for me. Do you have any recommendations? These rooms are much too dark to leave as they are.
A: A very popular treatment for wood paneling in recent years is to give the wood a subtle, whitewashed appearance, referred to as “pickling.” The semi-transparent coating allows the wood grain to show through. This is a treatment for natural wood, not a plastic laminate look-alike. It works best on open-grained woods.
Pickling pine or other whitewood is not difficult, although a beginner might have problems trying the finish on hardwood, where the paint pad will tend to slide over the surface without leaving enough color behind.
However, with patience and practice, it is feasible, even if two or three coatings are required. On indoor paneling, it will certainly brighten up the room. Although pickling isn’t difficult, it is time consuming. Done with care, do-it-yourselfers can get good results.
The first step is to strip the old finish with a commercial paint or varnish remover. You may want to consider one of the newer water-based strippers. They’re considered safer to use than conventional solvent-based strippers and have less-harmful vapors. That’s a benefit when considering indoor projects. There are, however, some trade-offs to a water-based stripper.
Many water-based strippers take hours to do what their solvent-based counterparts accomplish in 15 to 20 minutes. In addition, you will need to sand more than when using a solvent-based stripper, as the water-based product tends to raise the wood grain.
Water-based strippers are nonflammable and clean up much easier because water, rather than a chemical wash, is used to clean hands and tools.
Several wood strippers, both water-based and solvent-based, are marketed as a semi-paste to adhere evenly to vertical surfaces. With these strippers there is less mess from runs and drips.
A water-based stripper allows you to take more time than the solvent-based counterpart. Unlike conventional strippers, these strippers soften paint and other finish without bubbling or blistering. They can be left on surfaces for long periods of time — even overnight — without drying or damaging the wood.
Once you have stripped the varnish or polyurethane finish from the wood (several applications may be necessary), you will probably find that the bare surface is much lighter.
If you still prefer lightening, try a weak solution of oxalic acid (4 ounces dissolved in 1 quart of hot water). Using a brush, apply the solution either warm or cold. Leave it on for at least a few days before neutralizing with a wash of clear water. Dry the surface thoroughly.
If the surface remains unevenly colored, you can diminish spotting by making a paste of oxalic acid (add a drip of water to the oxalic acid crystals) and dab on the affected areas. Leave a few hours and then rinse with clear water.
Any surface blemishes, such as gouges and nail holes, should be patched with wood filler. A thorough sanding with successively finer sandpapers is essential to prevent surface indentations from trapping too much paint during the pickling process.
One way to tint the wood is to use a flat white paint thinned with about one-third of its volume to give better penetration. Either latex-based or alkyd-based paint can be used, but latex is often preferable because it can be thinned with water and is not flammable. Tools and brushes can also be cleaned with water.
There are also many tinting paint products (pastel wood stains) on the market that can provide you with an array of different light-color tints. Check with your local paint dealer. Follow directions from the manufacturer carefully.
Before starting the tinting process, remove all dust and sanding residue from the wood surface with a sticky tack cloth or by vacuuming. Test the tinting paint in an inconspicuous area first.
Because the paint must be wiped off soon after application, it will be necessary to work in small sections, one at a time.
The thinned paint is applied to the wood with a brush or pad and allowed to penetrate for a few minutes for a light tint, 10 minutes or so for more paint absorption.
Experimenting with scraps or in an inconspicuous area will help determine the proper timing. Before the solution can dry, rub it off the surface with rags, working in a circular motion or across the grain so that some of the paint is left in the grain depressions. Let the wood dry overnight and sand with a fine sandpaper, preferably using an electric finishing sander or pad sander to speed the work. Do not sand too much. Remove dust with a tack cloth or vacuum between each sanding.
Apply a coat of clear, non-yellowing varnish or polyurethane. When the finish coating is dry, sand lightly and apply at least one more coat to protect the wood. Often a third coating is preferable for maximum protection.
Send e-mail to copleysd@copleynews.com or write to Here’s How, Copley News Service, P.O. Box 120190, San Diego, CA 92112-0190. Only questions of general interest can be answered in the column.