The 2009 Jessie’s Grove Lodi Ancient Vine Tokay ($35/500 ML) is like a strangely beautiful, exotic bird, kept well in an aviary for all to see. According to winemaker/proprietor Greg Burns, it is “a tribute to a part of Lodi’s past that I hope will never be forgotten.”
Although it is a sweet, fortified (16.82 percent alcohol) dessert wine, the Ancient Vine Tokay is the opposite of the type of cloyingly sweet, heavy wine usually associated with fortifieds. This gold tinged wine comes across light as a feather, with a lemony crisp balance to its sweetness, and fragrant perfumes of white flower and lightly caramelized dried grapes.
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