I don't begrudge my fellow man and stalk off or click off the TV every time one of those Lexus Christmas commercials comes on. I'm happy for other people's success, but after more than 30 years in the business of selling or writing about wine, there's one thing I never understood: Why do people spend too much on bottles of wine?
I'm talking about big-name, big-shot wines that cost over $100, $200 or even $500 a bottle. They're not like a Lexus, which at least gives you a nifty package of engineering. Fine wine is more like aesthetic arts or crafts: The qualities appreciated are sensory, and therefore very much a state of mind, not measurable technology.