There’s always one in the bunch. A newly loosed winegrower, seemingly oblivious to industry trends; making a decision to plant, as his centerpiece, a grape with a solid track record of market disappointment: California grown Sangiovese.
But, boy, are we glad that Mike Scott, owner/grower of the Sorelle Winery estate, stuck to his guns. Because the first wine made 100 percent from his vineyard — the 2010 Sorelle Troppo Bella Lodi Sangiovese ($25) — is an unmitigated success: beautifully focused and filigreed fragrances of black cherry and rose petal in amongst a backdrop suggesting dried herb potpourri; the delicate array of flavors surfacing in a sleekly textured medium body of both delicacy and strength, zipped up by a crackling natural acidity that stops short of being sharp; with moderate strands of tannin woven deftly in between, adding firmness to the feel.
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