After the runaway international success of their Gnarly Head wines, the Indelicato family seems to be up to their old tricks with their newish Brazin Vineyards brand. Although those who know Lodi well also know that what the Indelicatos do is really no trick: They're simply smart enough to be bullish about all the beautiful, reasonably priced fruit from 30- to 100 plus-year-old vineyards out there for the taking in Lodi.
The 2007 Brazin (B)Old Vine Zinfandel ($15) is quintessential Lodi in several ways, aside from its almost ridiculously low price: beginning with its nose of blackberry jam, dried figs and savory, autumnal spices, and then veering into its moderately full, liquid velvet feel. If wines were TV stars, this one would be buxom, bouncy and saucy mouthed — "brazin," if you will.
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