What can’t Lodi grow well? Because the Delta’s moderate Mediterranean climate and rich sandy loams are so accommodating, the region grows the largest variety of classic wine grape in the U.S. With such a plethora to choose from, inevitably unexpected wines are crafted by some of the more adventurous winemakers — such as Markus Niggli, the Swiss born winemaker of Borra Vineyards, Lodi’s oldest family winery (bonded in 1975).
Niggli’s latest innovation is the 2013 Borra Lodi Artist Series — Limited Edition White ($19): a bone dry, medium bodied white wine, bursting with refreshingly crisp lime/green apple/pear-like fruit; with sleek, silky textures punctuated by lightly tart, completely natural acidity. This is a 100 percent native yeast/stainless steel fermented white wine (zero oak aging), crafted from 50 percent Kerner (a German white wine grape crossing), 25 percent Riesling and 25 percent Bacchus (another German crossing).
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