Sometimes a wine is better off made without much human intervention — in order to allow its provenance to speak for itself.
In the case of a red Zinfandel from a long-established vineyard in a place like Lodi, if you do the minimum — picking the grapes and getting the wine into a fermentation vat — all you have to do is watch it a little to make sure things don't go south. As it starts to bubble up and turn those sugars into alcohol, all the goodies found in the skins turn into natural grape tastes resembling, say, quivering spoonfuls of raspberry preserves with sprinkles of cinnamon toast, nostril tingling pepper, and just-roasted coffee grounds.
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