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Mabel Mortenson, who has worked at Lay's for eight years, stands with owner Una Kim. (Jennifer M. Howell/News-Sentinel)

Biscuits and gravy top faves at Clements diner

By Lauren Nelson
Lodi Living Editor
Saturday, September 6, 2008 5:17 AM PDT

Lay's Roadhouse is a country restaurant, filled with ceramic chickens, pastel dishes and cowboy hats. The phone rings every once in a while, and Mabel Mortenson, who works in the morning, usually answers the large, old-fashion wooden phone hanging near the cash register. The walls are lined with Polaroid snapshots of customers and children. On a weekday morning, couples eat breakfast and watch "Regis and Kelly" and the news on the TV.

In Clements, Lay's Roadhouse is a different kind of diner. Things seem slower, simpler. It's quiet. Customers are content, stirring packs of sugar into mugs and jellying their English muffins. Still, Mabel is quick to make sure everyone has water, coffee or hot chocolate topped with cool whipped cream.

Lay's Roadhouse has been at 18839 E. Highway 88 for 30 years. Owners Una and Simon Kim took over the family diner about five years ago. Hands down, the specialty is biscuits and gravy.

"We're very proud of the biscuits and gravy," Simon Kim said. "We want to make everything from scratch."

From making the dough and baking it for biscuits to making the gravy without pre-packaged seasonings or ingredients, the dish is made fresh every day. Simon Kim says the best time to go is in the morning — and most of his regulars already know that. Often times, his customers are waiting for him to open.


Lay's Roadhouse Farm Boy breakfast includes two pancakes, two strips of bacon, two sausage links and two eggs for $6.99. (Jennifer M. Howell/News-Sentinel)

For breakfast alone, there are dozens of choices. A second popular choice is the Ranch Hand — two slices of French toast, two strips of bacon, two sausage links, two eggs and hash browns or country potatoes.

The Farm Boy is a similar meal, but includes pancakes and it doesn't come with potatoes.

If you like omelets, you'll enjoy Lay's Roadhouse. There are more than 10 omelets to choose. The 4-Star is filled with ham, bacon, sausage and cheddar. Turkey, Swiss and American cheeses, mushrooms and tomatoes make up the Comstock. The Roadhouse is made of homemade chili, onions, bell pepper, cheddar and Swiss cheeses. For a zesty omelet, try the Spanish — homemade salsa, cilantro, tomatoes, mushrooms, bell peppers, onions and cheese.


The 4-Star omelet is stuffed with ham, bacon, sausage and cheese. (Jennifer M. Howell/News-Sentinel)

Roadhouse specialty breakfasts are diverse: Corned beef hash with eggs, ham steak and eggs, chicken fried steak (very popular), steak and eggs, hamburger steak and even large breakfast burritos.

What kind of roadside haven would Lay's be without famous burgers? Take you pick of a super double quarter pounder, Western burger, Hwy. 88 burger (with sautéed mushrooms, pineapple and glazed with homemade teriyaki sauce), California burger (bacon, Ortega chilis and Swiss cheese), chili cheese burger, the Bushwhacher (Swiss and American cheeses, two strips of bacon, grilled onion on sourdough) or a patty melt.

But they also offer meatless options, like the meatless melt that includes Ortega chilis, tomatoes, red onions and cheeses. Garden burgers are also available.

Restaurant At A Glance
What: Lay's Roadhouse
Where: 18839 E. Highway 88
Specialty: Biscuits and gravy
Hours: 6 a.m.-8 p.m., close at 2 p.m. Wednesday.
Information: 759-1606

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