The historic Joe Shoong Chinese School in Locke features photographs of the first generations of students, along with their original desks. (Jennifer M. Howell/News-Sentinel)

Great steak and bok choy

West of Lodi lies the historic little gem of Locke

LOCKE — This mystical town is one of the great places you might miss if you're not looking for it. Near the lazy waterways of the Delta, behind a ramshackle market and apartments, lies a town that has etched its way into local history.

In 1915, after a fire ripped through the Chinese neighborhood of nearby Walnut Grove, the Chinese decided it was time to build their own community. Locke, as the town was eventually named, became a thriving river town where Chinese farmers built restaurants and bars, a gambling hall, a market, a school and small houses.

Now, Locke is a ghost-like town that is going through its second emergence. More and more artists are finding that Locke not only inspires them, but it is the perfect location for galleries and studios. Community members are also working together by beautifying community gardens, Main Street and even the old church.

"Coming to Locke means you've landed in this enchanted little place," Locke artist Catherine Conner said. "There are a lot of good spirits here from the old, old time."

For a glance into Locke's history, visit the Locke Chinese School, where old children's seats are lined between walls covered in black and white photos of Locke's first generations.

The Dai Loy Museum, a gambling house that was closed in the 1950s, is still home to a lottery room and old memorabilia.

Al's Place, formerly known as Al the Wop's, is a popular bar and steakhouse for people in the area — especially motorcyclists. The restaurant is known for its surprises. It is said that the owner used to cut off customers' dressy neckties, threw money to the ceiling and stirred the ladies' drinks with his fingers.

Open daily, Al's is famous for its steak and pasta.

While in Locke, visit the numerous art galleries, where you will likely be able to meet the artist.

Conner and 30-year Locke resident and artist Chris Spencer show their art at Conner's Down by the River Studio Gallery. To them, Locke is a gem that doesn't compare to anywhere else.

"In this fast-paced, impersonal world, Locke still has the essence of the old days," Spencer said.

To get the full effect of Locke, travel off the beaten path (or, Main Street), down one of the narrow alleys, to the community gardens. Wild flowers grow under old trees, hammocks hang and even an old children's carousel horse is a fixture.

A resident of 35 years and a retired woodworker, Russell Ooms is one resident who helps maintain the community gardens, where bok choy and bitter melon were once grown. As Locke makes innovations like new plumbing and heating, renovating the school and Main Street, Ooms digs up a pipe so modern innovations like a rototiller can be used in the garden.

Still, it's the old charm that lured Ooms in and has kept him there for 35 years.

"I love the open space. I love the Chinese way of life — they recycle everything," he said, recalling one winter when a Chinese woman wrapped her pipes in old undergarments.

His house, formerly a boarding house, resembles a log cabin, with a big large yard decorated with homemade boxes of growing Swiss chard.

He encourages visitors to walk through the entire town to see a different way of life, compared to the boxed, corporate way of life that lurks only miles outside of town.

"We're under the radar," Ooms said. "We're like the eye of a hurricane."

Contact Lodi Living Editor Lauren Nelson at laurenn@lodinews.com.