Asparagus lays in baskets for sale during the Asparagus Festival Sunday in Stockton. (Brian Feulner/News-Sentinel)

Versatile vegetable

Local food experts share how to prepare this locally grown, spear-shaped food

One of the signs spring has officially arrived is the abundance of fresh asparagus in the produce section. Although it can be purchased year-round, the peak season for asparagus according to the California Asparagus Commission, is during the months of March, April and May.

Robyn Grace Jennings

Robyn Jennings, News-Sentinel columnist, said asparagus is very versatile and can be cooked by roasting, blanching, grilling or just eating raw.

Jennings as well as other local food experts have provided tips for preparing this versatile vegetable.

"Asparagus seasoned simply with olive oil, salt and pepper goes well with just about every kind of meat and main entree dish," said Jennings.

Along with the versatility, for some asparagus is good without much added to it.

"I like it just plain," said News-Sentinel Columnist Nancy Rostomily. "It is our favorite vegetable."

When choosing asparagus, it is best to look a bunch that is firm, is bright green in color and has tight heads, said Jennings. After rinsing and drying asparagus, bend a spear until it breaks, then line up the bunch by the tops and slice where the first piece broke. Then, toss out the woody stems. Although, Julio Camberos, of Black Tie Gourmet, said the stems can be saved and used in soups or salads.

Julio Camberos

If using the stems, Camberos suggests peeling the sides to get rid of the stringy parts. He said it makes them really tender.

To prepare by roasting, Jennings said to place them on a sheet pan in one layer. Then, toss with olive oil, salt and pepper and roast at 450 degrees for eight to 10 minutes, shaking pan once half-way through. For blanching, she said to place it in boiling salted water for two minutes until softened but not mushy. It can be served either right away or after plunging it in an ice bath for a minute to stop the cooking. Then, serve it cold or reheat it in a pan just before serving. Rostomily then likes to drizzle with olive oil and course salt.

When grilling, Jennings suggests tossing the asparagus in olive oil, salt and pepper and then grilling for about six minutes. Rostomily likes to barbecue them just until the grill marks appear.

Once asparagus is cooked in the method of choice, Jennings said it can be topped with hollandaise or herb butter. Or, it can be topped with some freshly grated parmesan cheese. To serve chilled, she said it can be topped with some mayonnaise or Italian dressing and served along with some chopped hard boiled eggs.

Crisp roasted asparagus and smoked salmon with hollandaise sauce

Cut the woody ends off of two bunches of medium to large asparagus. Toss in a little olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast at 450 degrees for about eight minutes or until raw flavor is cooked out, but asparagus still has a little crunch.

Meanwhile, melt one cube of salted butter in a small sauce pan, being careful not to brown. In a blender, combine two egg yokes, 11/2 tablespoons of lemon juice, 3 -4 dashes of Tabasco brand hot sauce and a pinch of salt and pepper. Turn on the blender and begin slowing pouring in butter. Stop when all ingredients are combined and creamy. Taste and add salt and pepper, if desired.

Divide spears and wrap each with a little strip of smoked salmon lox and pile on individual plates. Top with hollandaise and a little bit of finely chopped parsley. Serve with a chunk of bread.

Source: Robyn Grace Jennings

Asparagus with crystallized ginger vinaigrette

3/4 cup neutral-flavored oil, such as canola oil, plus more as needed

1/4 medium yellow onion, cut into very thin strips (julienne)

Kosher salt

1 pound (not too thick or too thin) asparagus (peeled or unpeeled) and tough ends trimmed; reserve peelings and trimmings

1 1/2 tablespoons crystallized ginger, cut into julienne

1/4 cup rice vinegar or cider vinegar

Water (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper

Place a heatproof colander over a large metal mixing bowl in the sink (for straining hot oil). Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

Pour the oil in a medium saucepan (it should cover the bottom by 1/2 inch; if not, add more as needed). Add the onion and place the saucepan over high heat. Fry for 6 to 7 minutes, until the onion becomes golden brown (stir only after it starts to gain color); watch closely to avoid burning. Strain the onion in the colander, reserving 2 tablespoons of oil for the vinaigrette. Spread the onion on the baking sheet to cool, and season lightly with salt. Keep the fried onion at room temperature until ready to use.

Fill a large bowl with ice cubes and cold water. Have a clean dish towel laid on the counter nearby.

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the asparagus and cook for about 2 minutes, just until tender; use tongs to transfer the spears to the ice-water bath to stop their cooking. Transfer them to the dish towel, wrap them up and refrigerate until ready to use.

Meanwhile, combine the ginger and vinegar in a small saute pan or skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes or until the liquid has reduced by half. The consistency should be slightly syrupy. Transfer to a small mixing bowl and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes.

When it has cooled, whisk in 2 tablespoons of the strained, onion-flavored oil in a slow, steady stream; if during this process the vinaigrette becomes too thick, add a small amount of water as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve, arrange the asparagus on individual plates. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the top, and then sprinkle with the fried onions and salt and pepper to taste. Serve at room temperature. Makes four servings.

Source: The Washington Post

Contact Panorama Editor Pam Bauserman at pamelab@lodinews.com.