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Topped with Gorgonzola-style blue cheese, this Gnocchi alla Oregonzola has a deep flavor. (Courtesy photo)

Many varieties of cheese becoming more available

By Pam Bauserman
News-Sentinel Staff Writer
Updated: Wednesday, March 5, 2008 6:48 AM PST

It's a cheesy world out there. Hundreds of cheeses exist in the world today and Lodians are selecting some of the varieties that are available. Local food experts share their favorites and what can be created with them.

News-Sentinel food columnist Nancy Rostomily said she likes to track different cheeses like many track different kinds of wine. So, she has started a cheese journal.

"There are so many wonderful cheeses out there," she said.

Rostomily added that the kind of cheese she picks depends on what she is using it for. She said she has recently been leaning more toward the artisan cheeses.

She mostly eats cheese by itself along with salami and olives, and also enjoys fresh mozzarella with tomatoes and fresh basil. Some other favorite cheeses include manchego and hard gruyere.

Because cheese is her favorite food obsession of all time, Robyn Grace Jennings, News-Sentinel food columnist, said it is a rare occasion for her not to find a use for most cheeses. Her favorites include manchego, humboldt fog, gruyere, parmigiano reggiano and mozzarella.

Soft-cooked eggs with crumpled bacon, extra-sharp cheddar cheese and fresh herbs
• Cook two eggs per person. To make soft-cooked eggs, boil 31/2 minutes in gently boiling water.
• Run under cool water to make handling easier.
• Scoop out soft and runny eggs and top with a generous portion of freshly shredded or crumpled extra-sharp cheddar cheese, crumbly bacon and chopped parsley and chives.

Chunky provolone, salami and arugula salad
• Cut salami and cheese into bite-sized chunks.
• Toss with arugula, salt, pepper, olive oil and lemon juice.
• To allow flavors to combine, toss and let sit for 10 minutes, then toss again.

Dried apricots with Humboldt fog and honey
• Let Humboldt fog sit for 20 minutes then top generous chunks onto dried apricots.
• Drizzle with honey.
Source: Robyn Grace Jennings.
• Unpasteurised cheese with a range of flavors should not be sliced until purchased, otherwise it will start to lose its subtlety and aroma.
• Keep the cheese in conditions in which it matures. Hard, semi-hard and semi-soft cheeses are stored in the temperatures from around 8-13 C.
• Keep the cheese wrapped in twaxed paper and place it in a loose-fitting food-bag to prevent the loss of humidity and maintain the circulation of air.
• Wrap blue cheeses all over, as mold spores spread readily — not only to other cheeses — but also to everything near.
• Chilled cheeses should be taken out of the refrigerator one and a half or two hours before serving.
• Cheeses contain living organisms that must not be cut off from air, yet it is important not to let a cheese dry out.
• Do not store cheese with other strong-smelling foods. As a cheese breathes it will absorb other aromas and may spoil.
• Wrap soft cheeses loosely. Use waxed or grease-proof paper rather than cling film.
• Let cold cheese warm up for about half an hour before eating to allow the flavor and aroma to develop.
Source: http://www.cheese.com.

Manchego, a hard sheep's milk cheese, has a tangy, nutty flavor and is often served with Serrano ham and Quince paste, she said. Humboldt fog is a piquant, pungent and creamy cheese and Jennings said it tastes best with a fresh baguette. She feels parmigiano reggiano is the parmesan cheese everyone should be using.

"It's match is hard to find when cooking or nibbling," she said.

Gruyere cheese, she said, is more buttery and melts well. Because of this, she suggests using it in grilled cheese sandwiches.

Lodi Cooks owner and chef Meyer Puzon favors gouda and blue cheese. He feels pizza is much tastier with gouda cheese. While mozzarella tends to get runny, he said that gouda's consistency is better when cooking.

"Gouda gives it a nice, crisp flavor," he said.

Puzon also makes macaroni and cheese with gouda.

The key, he said, is to mix gouda, sharp cheddar and parmesan along with some cream or milk and then bake.

"Those three (cheeses) tend to blend a nice textured mixture," he said.

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