Opa! Restaurant offers best in Greek cuisine

Jessie Barajas uses ouzo to set fire to Kasseri cheese at Papapavlo's Mediterranean Bistro and Wine Bar in Stockton. The flames caramelize the cheese, making the popular appetizer Saganaki. (Brian Feulner/News-Sentinel)

Opa! Restaurant offers best in Greek cuisine

By Marc Lutz
Lodi Living editor

Saturday, October 14, 2006 12:06 AM PDT

Comments (1 comment(s))

Some old sayings ring true. For instance, the classics never go out of style.

That may seem cliché to most, but there is nothing cliché about Papapavlo's Mediterranean Bistro and Wine Bar in Stockton.

Come this January, Papapavlo's will have been in operation for 17 years. Quite a feat considering most restaurants don't last very long these days. The owner, Andy Pappas, started the business with the idea of wanting to do something unique with a European feel.

In that time, Pappas, along with his wife, Jennifer, have opened a second location in Modesto, have a bakery connected to the Stockton restaurant, and have begun catering.

How did he get into the business?

"My family is deeply rooted in the restaurant industry," Pappas said by phone. "My father and uncles were cooks for years and years. Cooking has always a part of us. It's a culture."

After a career in real estate, and doing the research, Pappas realized Stockton was the perfect location for the restaurant.

Upon entering Papapavlo's, one is instantly taken to another world. The intimate yet elegant dining areas are warm and inviting. The scent of something wonderful cooking permeates the air.

The friendly atmosphere is evident as people chatter happily in between bites of succulent dishes.

Starting a meal with saganaki is advisable, as it's a treat for the tastebuds and the eyes. Saganaki is an imported Kasseri cheese. When it's brought out, the wait staff uses ouzo and sets the cheese on fire. A column of flame and a hearty "opa!" goes up.

The outside of the cheese is caramelized, while the inside melts to a spreadable consistency. It's then spread on warm pita bread. The taste comes on strong with a sharp tanginess, then mellows out and plays on the tongue. It finishes smooth, blending perfectly with the bread.

The Village Salad is one of many dishes on the menu at Papapavlo's in Stockton. (Brian Feulner/News-Sentinel)

Dishes like the lamb brochette can't be missed. The tender juicy meat will entice your tongue, and — no matter how much you've had — leave you wanting more.

And, of course, you can't eat Greek cuisine without having a gyros plate. Papapavlo's broiled blend of lamb and beef served with tzaziki sauce on the side is reason enough to reserve a permanent seat in this fantastic eatery.

After trying any of the number of dishes they offer — if there's still room — make sure to have the baklava (or even better, the chocolate baklava). The flaky outer layers of filo pastry give way to an inside filled with walnuts, almonds, honey and cinnamon. It doesn't get much better than that.

You may have heard rumors that Papapavlo's will be moving in the coming year. The rumors are true, but location and exact date haven't been released yet.

Pappas assures that the location will still be in Stockton and will be roomier, with space for private banquets.

Restaurant At A Glance

What: Papapavlo's Mediterranean Bistro and Wine Bar
Where: 7555 Pacific Ave., Stockton.
Price Range: $7.95 - $23.95.
Hours Of Operation: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Thursday. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Sunday.
Information: 477-6855.

Reader Feedback

Skilos wrote on Oct 16, 2006 7:07 PM:

" I've been a Greek for 74 years and have never had chocolate baklava, guess I'll have to go to Andy's place and try it. OPA! "

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