Lodi's viticultural area, or appellation, was approved to be split into smaller regions last month. The change was made to identify the unique qualities of soil, climate and varieties within each region of the appellation. (Marc Lutz/News-Sentinel)

Lodi appellation subdivided

Split will let consumers have better experience in choosing, winemakers say

Zinfandel may be Lodi's best-known wine varietal, but savvy consumers may not want just any zin, but one that has the characteristics they crave.

In a region as large as the Lodi appellation, the zinfandel grapes near the Mokelumne River are far different than those cultivated on the small hills outside of Clements.

The differing soils and temperatures of those areas lead to unique wines, and the Lodi appellation has been divided into subregions that reflect those differences. It means that wine lovers can now not only find their favorite type of Lodi wine, but zero in on the region that makes the finest type of that varietal and also experience all the fun of tasting the differences.

Late last month, winemakers within the Lodi appellation made the split to help market their vintages and increase consumer understanding of the Lodi appellation, which runs from Lodi to Elk Grove and to the edges of the foothills.

"This was a necessary change because the appellation was so huge it didn't give people a real idea about the uniqueness of the area where the wine grapes are grown," said Bokisch Vineyards owner Steve Bokisch, who helped lead the drive to divide the appellation.

A few wine tasters visiting the area Friday had mixed thoughts on the change.

"It's similar to San Francisco being split into different neighborhoods," said Steve Rossi while wine tasting at the Borra Vineyard on Friday afternoon. "Each one has its own style and identity."

Rossi, who was visiting from Half Moon Bay, said the change will enhance the wine experience because he won't have to taste every wine to know what he likes. If he knows a merlot from Mokelumne River is good, he can almost guarantee he'll like other merlots from that same appellation.

But Steve Boles, visiting the area with Rossi, was less sure about the effectiveness of dividing the appellation into subgroups.

"Until the public learns what the difference is between the regions, all it will lead to is confusion," Boles said.

He said he knows what to expect from a zinfandel coming from the Russian River area of Sonoma County or of a cabernet sauvignon from Oakville of Napa Valley because they have distinguished themselves from other zinfandels or cabernets.

It will take time for Lodi's subappellations to reach that same level, but he said once they do, consumers will likely benefit.

Steve Rossi, left, and Steve Boles sample different wines at Borra Winery in Lodi on Friday. (Mitchell W. Podraza/News-Sentinel)

Although the new names were only made official in late July, some vintners have already latched onto them.

Steve Borra, owner of Borra Vineyards, said he was in the process of changing his wine labels anyway, so it was the perfect time to add Clements Hills to the already well-known Lodi found on his labels.

"People may not know the difference between a Clements Hills wine and a Mokelumne River wine," he said, "But if you try a wine with Clements Hills on the label and like it, you may be influenced to purchase if you see it on another label later."

He said he doesn't expect the change to occur quickly, but is optimistic about wineries buying into the idea and educating consumers about what it means to be from a particular appellation.

Steve Borra explains the reason behind the regionalization of various wine-producing areas Friday at his winery in Lodi. (Mitchell W. Podraza/News-Sentinel)

Kent Greaver, visiting Lodi from Temecula, said he believes the change will only enhance the Lodi name and help wineries with marketing their wines to the right consumers.

"From a marketing perspective it can be very enhancing," he said, "And it's not just fluff marketing, it's something people can really use to choose a wine they enjoy."

Greaver was familiar with the Sonoma County wine region, which is also split into smaller appellations. He said different climate regions are indicative of different types of wine and the appellation split is what helped him learn what type of wine he can expect from an area.

Bokisch said the different climates and soils of Lodi are what drove him to seek support from other vintners and approach the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau — the federal agency overseeing the wine industry — for approval.

The newly named Mokelumne River appellation, for instance, will likely be well-known for it's old vine zinfandels — a grape that grows well in the sandy soils of the area. But the less fertile soils of the Alta Mesa or Jahant areas are better for cabernets or syrahs.

Knowing this will help consumers know whether they should buy a zinfandel or cabernet from a select region.

But like Rossi said, "If the wine tastes good, that's really all that matters in the end."

Contact reporter Rebecca Adler at rebeccaa@lodinews.com.

First published: Saturday, August 19, 2006