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No time to rest for area grape harvesters and growers
People may have been enjoying their three-day weekend, having barbecues, spending a day at the beach or hiking in the mountains. But grapes, and grape growers, don't take a day off -- even if it is a day celebrating workers.
Labor Day was like any other day for grape harvesters and wine makers on Monday. Labor Day is a national tribute to workers and their contribution to the economy and well-being of the country, according to the U.S. Department of Labor; the day became an official national holiday in 1894.
During grape season, there is no time for a break. Grapes could be ripe at any minute, and different grapes need to be picked at various levels of maturity for optimum flavor for wine. And on hot days between 97 and 101 degrees like the ones this Labor Day weekend, the grapes ripen the fastest, said Kevin Phillips, director of operations at Michael-David Vineyards. Sugar and acid levels are factors that help grape growers determine when to pick the grapes. The other factor -- opinion. Grape growers look at the vine and grapes and taste them to see if they're ready.
"Mother Nature doesn't care if it's a weekday or 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.," said Mark Chandler, executive director of the Lodi-Woodbridge Winegrape Commission. "The grape growers have to respond. They're very much in the thick of it."
The harvesting process is 24 hours a day, seven days a week from the start of the season, which usually lasts six to eight weeks, said John Ledbetter, a partner in Vino Farms. The season began early this year at the end of July and is expected to wrap up in late September. The harvesting process includes hand crews during the day, who cut and pick the grapes by hand, and machine harvesters at night.
"September is one long day," Kevin Phillips said. This time of year, he's used to working from 5:30 a.m. to 8:30 or 9:30 p.m., putting in 80- to 90-hour work weeks. He sometimes works through the night with the machine harvesters.
For Michael Phillips, Monday was a regular day, harvesting grapes and scheduling loads. Grapes were coming in from the vineyards to be crushed and fermented; fermented grapes were ready to be strained into pure juice for wine.
"That's why they call it Labor Day, right?" he said with a grin.
The workers who were picking the grapes didn't show signs of stress in the heat of the mid-morning. They whistled and conversed as they worked quickly to cut grapes from the vines and load them in bins. On hot days like Monday, Kevin Phillips said the grape workers are finished by 11 a.m., and they are let off no later than 2 p.m.
Vineyard workers' days off come in the winter months, after the grapes have been harvested and before the vines have to be prepared for spring.
So what would happen if the grape workers took a day off? Ledbetter laughed, saying that the grapes just wouldn't get picked.
"Cows have got to be milked every day," he said. And grapes have to be picked every day, this time of year.
The grape growers do almost every procedure each day.
"We'd get real behind, real fast," if grape workers took a day off, Kevin Phillips said.
On Monday at Michael-David Vineyards, grape workers were picking petite sirah grapes, which are a good variety for blending because of their spicy flavor and dark coloring, Kevin Phillips said. It takes about a half hour for grape workers to pick one pass, which is four rows at a time.
Melissa Phillips, Kevin Phillips' sister, said she's been working with her brother, doing sugar testing.
"We're having optimal conditions this year," she said, because there haven't been many 100-degree days, and the nights have been cool. "In my lifetime, this has been the best harvest."

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